Inspiration dress The dress I made using the 40k sway top
When choosing your fabric make sure it has enough stretch. As you can see my teal fabric is a little form fitting because it didn’t have the the 50% stretch. I used a brush french terry teal and a brushed hacci knit from Sincerely Rylee. After you have chosen your perfect fabric make sure you have at least 1.5-2 yards of the accent fabric or you will not have enough for this dress. Hence the reason my sleeves cuffs are shorter because i ran out of fabric. Now on to printing your pattern, you need to print 2 back pieces so you can cut the bodice curve correctly. You will be using some of the instructions from the actual pattern when sewing.
We are gong to start on the bottom curve of the bodice. I wanted the high part of the curve to be at 6 inches. I used my vary form curved ruler but you could free hand the curve if you wanted to. Please keep in mind that the top hits at you between your high to full hip depending on height. Always grade out for you hips if they fall in a different size range from your bust, that way you will reduce the chance of the dress being to tight across the hips. Do not throw away your bottom edge of the bodice, you will need that for your skirts. I lay my back pieces facing towards the front piece facing so I can match up the so the bottom curves will flow correctly. Trace the bottom curve to the front piece and cut, remember do not discard the bottom curve.
You’re going to measure from your side seam to the front of your bust to figure out where you want your side packet to lay. I did 3.5in and cut my line vertically. On the side add a seam allowance of 1/4″ and on the main bodice at 2 inches to make your faux packet.
You are going to lay the front shoulder under the side bodice by overlapping it by 1/4 to take out your seam, and tape together. When you do this you are going to mark on the shoulder piece to separate the shoulder from the side. Now tape a new 1/4″ seam allowance on both pieces. With the neckband please reduce it by half of the amount you use to make your side seam and add 1/2inch.
This is where you will now use those bottom curves to make your skirt layers. I like my skirts a little longer than most because I have kids and a lot of junk in my trunk. This is the easy part, take you piece and cut them into 1 inch strips care to keep them in order. I used 10 pieces of paper to make my skirt layout. Carefully layout your 1 inch pieces in order spacing them 1 inch apart along the top edge of the first row of paper and tape them down in place. You can space them further apart if you want a more gathered look. As you see in the second pic draw out your top curve. When I decided on my lengths of my skirts I accounted for the 1 inch hem since i wasn’t doing a rolled edge or lettuce edge hem. My top skirt on the short side was 7 inches and bottom skirts was 14 inches. Now we can start cutting our fabric. ALWAY MARK ON YOUR FRONT AND BACK BODICE PATTERNS PIECES WHICH IS OUTSIDE AND WHICH IS INSIDE, SO YOU DONT CUT WRONG.
The first step is fold over the front packet and iron together using hem tape. Then we sew together the shoulder piece to the side bodice, and connect the front shoulders to the back shoulders. Lay out the top and pin the neckband around the opening, making sure to fold over the band to close the edge of the packet. The way I do the neck binding is sew right sides fabric together with a seam allowance of 3/8″. I then fold the free edge towards the seam and fold again in half and sew down.
Place the front pieces and back piece right sides together. Overlap the front piece over the
shoulder piece, lining up the finished edge of the shoulder piece with the seam allowance
along the neckband on the front piece. Pin it in place and “stitch in the ditch” of the neckband
seam. Attach the sleeves and cuff the way the directions tell you. Then sew the side seams together.
Pat yourself on the back your almost done. Now comes the FUN part…. sewing the skirt on with gathers. There are many different way to gather a skirt. I sew up the side seams on the skirts separately and finish the hems. When you have both of those complete you can match the two skirts to gether and sew 2 baste stitches along the top curved edge and pin to the bottom of the skirt. You are going to pull the bobbin strings on both lines and evenly gather the edge to line up to the bodice edge. After you have evenly gathered it the best you can you will sew in between those 2 lines to attach the parts together. I then snip the bobbin thread at the opposite side seam of pulling and then pull out your baste stitches. To complete your dress you will either need a double needle to top stitch your edge up or zig zag stitch it up.
DONE now go enjoy your dress.
Recent Comments